0 Comments
If you decide not to replace the current window, click the desktop to return to it. Use a different app on one side: Click the app window, move the pointer over the green button in the top-left corner, choose Replace Tiled Window, then click the window you want to use instead. To return to the original sizes, double-click the separator bar.Ĭhange sides: Use a window’s title and toolbar to drag the window to the other side. Make one side bigger: Move the pointer over the separator bar located in the middle, then drag it left or right. Show or hide a window’s title and toolbar: Click the window, then move the pointer to or away from the top of the screen. Show or hide the Dock: Move the pointer to or away from the Dock’s location. If you deselected the option to hide and show the menu bar in full screen, the menu bar is always shown. Show or hide the menu bar: Move the pointer to or away from the top of the screen. The Split View is created in a new desktop space. On the other side of the screen, click the second app you want to work with. On your Mac, move the pointer to the green button in the top-left corner of the window, then choose Tile Window to Left of Screen or Tile Window to Right of Screen from the menu that appears. Get started with accessibility features.Use Sign in with Apple for apps and websites.Watch and listen together with SharePlay.Share and collaborate on files and folders.Sync music, books, and more between devices.Make and receive phone calls on your Mac.Use one keyboard and mouse to control Mac and iPad.Use Live Text to interact with text in a photo.Make text and other items on the screen bigger.Install and reinstall apps from the App Store. (I’m indebted to my PC Pro magazine colleague Paul Ockenden for that final tip. Experiment until you find one that works best for you. However, if you hold down the Option key as you click the Scaled button, you’ll find a far greater selection of resolutions to choose from. If you were to click scaled now, you would only get small selection of scaling options, which might not solve your problem. On the external screen, you should see Resolutions options to use the default for the display or scaled. To do this, open System Preferences and Displays again. It’s normally best to leave the scaling (the size of which items such as text appear on screen) on the default setting on your Mac and adjust the scaling of your external display, to see if you can get as close a match as possible to your MacBook’s screen. Windows might appear to shrink or expand as they move between the different screens, and that’s because the scaling isn’t quite right. If you’re using your high-res MacBook display with an external screen, you may notice a weird, jarring effect as you move windows from one screen to another. Another small space saver is to untick the option to Show recent applications in the Dock. The apps will still be available from the Launcher. If you feel the icons are too small, trying unpinning app icons that you rarely use by right clicking on them, selecting Options then Remove From Dock. Adjusting the Dock size slider won’t make any difference if your Dock is already running the length of the screen. When you shift the Dock to the side, you’ll notice the icons will have shrunk because there’s less space to fit each one in (assuming your monitor isn’t square!). Reposition the Dock using these settings Barry Collins/Apple Now use the relevant options to shift the Dock to either the left or right of the screen (the top is not an option as that’s where the menu bar lives). To shift the Dock, open System Preferences once more and select Dock. Even if you’re still using screens side by side, moving the Dock to the side of the screen can make more sense, as it’s vertical screen space that’s at a premium with today’s widescreen displays. It creates a barrier between the two screens. If you’re using your displays one above the other, having the Dock at the bottom of the primary display just feels wrong. That will now become your primary display. If yours is still on the lower (laptop) screen, click on that tiny white bar and drag it onto the other display. In the screenshot above, you’ll see a white menu bar at the top of the upper display, which is my external screen. However, if you’re using an external monitor that’s larger than the MacBook’s screen, it normally makes sense to assign that as the primary display. Make your monitor the primary displayīy default, the MacBook’s screen will be assigned as the primary display - the one where the Dock lives and where applications will open. Now you can drag windows from the monitor to the screen below in a completely natural way, as if you were physically dragging them from one screen to the other. Drag your laptop screen beneath the main display in the Mac settings Barry Collins/Apple If you can get your head around Photoshop or Affinity Photo, you’ll be fine with the level of complexity in DxO PhotoLab. What’s more, you can collapse panels you don’t need or customise the workspace so that it’s pared down to just those tools you need. (Image credit: Rod Lawton) (opens in new tab) With this full, automated perspective corrections are just a click away. PhotoLab 5 has lens corrections but not perspective corrections – for this you need the DxO ViewPoint add-on. The tools are now organised into groups according to their purpose – Light, Color, Detail, Geometry, Local Adjustments and Effects. It would be easy for new users to be intimidated by the sheer number of tools and panels, though DxO has made improvements here. We have ours set up with a histogram and navigator panel in the left sidebar and adjustment tools in the right sidebar. The Customise (editing) window is more complicated. PhotoLab’s PhotoLibrary window is pretty straightforward, with a folder tree and search field in the left sidebar, histogram and metadata panels on the right and thumbnails in the middle – the interface is actually highly customisable. Speaking of ‘virtual’, you can create as many virtual copies of an image as you like without duplicating the image file itself on your computer. Other things to note about PhotoLab 5 is that it is a non-destructive editor, so until you export a new, processed version of your photo, your changes are purely ‘virtual’ and visible only inside PhotoLab. PhotoLab 5 is a fully non-destructive editor – here we have one image with four different 'virtual copies', each with a different editing treatment. When you want to edit an image, you switch to the Customise window, where PhotoLab will automatically apply lens corrections based on its inbuilt profiles – or prompt you to download them if you don’t have them yet. These keywords conform to IPTC standards and are visible in other programs too. Specifically, you can apply keywords and search for images with specific keywords too. New in PhotoLab 5, though, is support for EXIF and IPTC metadata. It’s not Lightroom (opens in new tab) by any means, but for those who like to organize their images with physical folders it’s fine. First, it has an improved PhotoLibrary panel where you can browse your images by folders, carry out basic searches based on image parameters and even create virtual Projects (or albums). So let’s take a look at what DxO PhotoLab 5 can do from a workflow perspective. The DxO PhotoLibrary is a basic but effective image organizer, now with EXIF, IPTC metadata support and keywords. Both versions will correct lens distortion, chromatic aberration, corner shading and even edge softness automatically, but to get the perspective correction tools we now take for granted in other software for fixing converging verticals, for example, you need to get the DxO ViewPoint add-on, which is more again. What PhotoLab does not have built in is perspective correction tools, even in the Elite edition. 1 month plan - $0 per month ($0 total cost) (opens in new tab).Quite apart from anything else, it comes with DxO’s very effective ClearView contrast enhancement and its uncannily effective DeepPRIME noise reduction – which could completely change your mind about ‘acceptable’ ISO settings on your camera. PhotoLab 5 is sold in both Essential and Elite editions, but if you want the best that DxO’s raw processing can offer, we would recommend the more expensive Elite edition. Best laptops for photo editing (opens in new tab).Best monitors for photographers (opens in new tab).DxO Nik Collection 4 review (opens in new tab).Best photo editing software (opens in new tab). |